The General Electric P7 Americana, a classic in its time. And in avocado green!
I’ve always preferred gas stoves for cooking, but I recognize that electric ranges have their place. Some people worry about the gas leaking, or incomplete combustion and inadequate ventilation, but I find the instant-on, instant-off, immediate heat control with no time lag, to be features that are more important than possible asphyxiation.
And when This Odd House was operated as a duplex, the metering of power could be exactly assigned to the kitchen upstairs or the kitchen downstairs (the gas, interestingly, was shared– with the single thermostat residing upstairs).
When the house evolved to a single family dwelling, the stove downstairs was moved even further downstairs– to the basement– in order to make room for more important things on the main level. Things like disco lights and amplifiers.
Now this is not an uncommon occurrence. But the usual scenario is this: the old stove gets replaced by a modern one with all the latest features. The old one, still as functional as it ever was, gets moved to the basement where it will be placed into service on those high demand days when holiday cooking could use an extra heating and warming station.
My plan is to remodel the upstairs kitchen (and install a gas stove). I moved the existing electric stove down to the main floor to provide a mini-kitchen as I camped there during the renovation. The 220V outlet was already there, ready and waiting. I plugged it in, and looked forward to the next morning when I could heat water for coffee and enjoy my first day after moving into my new house.
It never occurred to me that the stove might not work. Inspector7 had investigated everything in the house, and if it had been defective, it would have been noted and highlighted. Instead, after finding that my tea kettle was no warmer after five minutes on the front-right burner set to HI, I discovered that the outlet was defective. It was not connected. No voltage could be detected by my meter, and without a source of electrons, the water would never boil.
I knew better than to try and solve the stove problem in my caffeine-deficient state. Instead, I brought the teakettle to the basement and set the front-right burner to HI. Five minutes later, the kettle was whistling. Coffee was brewed and I could focus on how this situation came to be.
It’s really quite an interesting sequence of logic. One can’t just drag an electric stove to the basement and expect it to work. It needs a specialized power outlet– 220Volts at 50 Amperes, probably the single highest electric load in a home (apart from recharging an electric car, but that’s a contemporary exception). To get that stove running means that someone had to divert 50 Amps of the total available incoming power to one outlet in the basement. Someone had to decide that rather than just moving the stove a few feet to the street with a “Free” sign on it, that it was better to maneuver it down the stairway to the basement and spend additional perfectly good money to run the power to it and keep it running.
To power the stove in the basement means that 50 Amps is NOT going somewhere else in the house. Well, where could we find 50 Amps to spare? How about that big outlet on the main floor? There’s no stove there anymore, so it’s just completely unused. I can imagine the perfect logic of it. The stove moves from first floor to the basement, so too does the power. But the first floor outlet is still there! It is just not connected to anything. Who would do this?
Still, I’m impressed that an expense was made to support that stove in the basement. The wiring is specialized and it was clear that the stove was intended to be used from time to time.
My GE P7 Americana, plugged into its home outlet, sharing space with its buddy, an electric clothes dryer, both consuming vast quantities of electrons to do their jobs.
The stove itself deserves some mention. Its avocado color scheme dates it solidly in the seventies. I have since learned that this is a model with an impressive pedigree, the 1960s version of the GE P7 Americana was the first stove ever to have a self-cleaning oven. Self cleaning!
I looked into this feature, as it seemed that the stove could benefit from it. I threw the self-clean lever into position, but it would not go. Some mechanical interlock seemed to prevent it. The stove was handicapped. Like a cat with a cone around its head, it could not clean itself. And with the passing of decades, the accumulation of carbonized food had tarnished its glamorous good looks.
I’m not sure what my long term plans for this classic stove is. It is well situated with its personal 50-Amp circuit. I just wish I could restore it to its former glory, but I’m not about to help a self-cleaning oven clean itself!
So what is the large box on the top? A second oven? A prehistoric microwave? A breadbox??
My GE-P7 self-cleaning oven range is vintage 1960’s.
It still functions well except for the clock /timer unit.
Please let me know where I can obtain a new clock for my Americana.
I have a an avocado J797 identical to the one pictured – I still use it but need a thermostat for the lower oven if anyone can hehp me locate one
I have the same dual oven came with house when bought 35 years ago and the bottom is a convection oven cooks turkeys 20lb in hour 1/2 amazing. My top oven inside tempered glass just broke and I need another one. I have this same color didn’t know it was called avocado I though mustard or something. I think I probably need the top door oven not sure if can replace glass. learned some new stuff about this oven. any ideas where i can get glass or door with glass?
The large box is a vent, it pops out and starts immediately venting.
That is another oven! Check out the advertisement at the top of the post where every feature of the stove is beautifully displayed and the ovens are what makes for champion recipe-makers. In the days before Photoshop, images like this were hand-crafted with elaborate photomechanical techniques in order to show the prize-winning recipes baking in the ovens along with the modern woman controlling it all.
Do you have the owners manual?
I sent you both the manual in 2 parts via email. I know Kim got it.
May I have a copy of the link to the owners manual… I can’t seem to locate it.
Does anyone have the owners manual?
I need to know if to work the vent on the stove top whether or not I need to open the metal flap at the very top.
As the upper is NOT as deep as the lower, the Front burners stick out from the front of the upper. With the upper vent closed, the stovetops DON’T pull across the fronts very well at all.
The vents (stovetop) are situated toward the back and are good for pulling heat, steam, cooking smoke, etc. from the back burners, but not so much from the front burners. I just leave my upper vent cover open as I use my front burners 99.99999&4/10’s of the time. I’d personally just leave the upper open and go from there.
Hi! I was reading everyone’s comments about the GE Americana. I have an avocado green one. My dad bought in in 1970 I think. Anyway I think it’s a J797? and it is identical to the illustration at the top of this chain. Could you please possibly email me an attachment of the owners manual? That would be so helpful! Thanks, Deborah
Hi I see mention of a manual possible for the Americana pictured in the ad? I know I’ve found this late, but I just bought one that – except for the placement of the americana logo on the upper oven door – looks identical to the one in the ad…Nancy, do you still have a link to its manual I might get from you? Thank you!
Hello Marilyn,
I only have the wiring diagram. And unfortunately, this site does not allow us to attach photos so I don’t know how I can get a copy of it to you.
Any ideas?
Gilda
And that Aluminum looking short box on top is the integrated exhaust fan (usually 2 spd.) It does everything a cook could want except eat the food for you. The upper oven has side, back and bottom panels that come out for cleaning (stick them in the lower oven, hold the interlock button and throw the clean lock, set the lower oven to clean for 4 hours and the whole kit and kaboodle gets cleaned! No Easy off, No playtex rubber gloves, no smell, just wipe with a damp sponge after it all cools down and reinstall in the upper oven.
Makes my life really easy as the upper oven gets all the work. The lower oven gets cleaned now about every 2 months due to the upper oven use, but otherwise doesn’t get used except for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Upper oven gasket, upper oven lower element and the timer have been replaced and it works better than most all new Ranges.
Hi, Larry! Where did you get the upper oven gasket? I’ve just bought one that sure looks identical to the one pictured in the ad, but that upper gasket’s missing a couple of inch’s worth…thank you!
Stretch it slightly when installing. It’ll fit.
I own one. When you tried to push the latch over to clean, did you press and hold the button while doing so? That is a safety feature. First, you raise the heat shield, using the levers on both sides, then close the door, then push the button and hold it down, then move the latch. You have to then use the timers to set the clean feature. The instructions are all online. I have all the original booklets and accessories. Everything works…I just had to read the manual!
I can’t find the instructions online. How do I clean the bottom oven when only the knob for the top oven has clean as an option.
The knobs are most likely on backwards. ONLY the BOTTOM OVEN is self cleaning. The upper oven is a standard, you clean it using caustic chemicals..
Go thru the procedure as outlined by Myrtle. NOTE that your timer must be working to Self clean. 1.) Raise the Window shield. 2.) close door. 3.) Push and hold SAFETY BUTTON while moving door latch to the right. 4.) Set temp to clean, 5.) Set selector on bottom oven to clean. 6.) Set timer for 3 to 4 hours (depending on the amount of residue in the oven. 7.) The CLEAN light will come on when the temp is above 500deg. This is an additional safety lockout to prevent opening the oven. When the light goes out after the timed cycle is finished and it cools down some, you can open the oven by reversing the procedure.
Let the oven cool down, and with a cloth dampened with WATER ONLY, wipe down the inside of the oven to remove left over ash and residues.
The upper oven gets cleaned with standard oven cleaners (ie: Easy off, etc.). follow directions on the can for either cold or warm oven.
NOTE: There is a way to self clean the oven if your timer is broken or not functioning, but you have to stay close by. It entails putting the start time knob at the current time as noted on the timer. Then the stop time is moved to any time other than the start time. This allows power to get to the oven. Set more than 1 timer for the time you want to clean. Go thru the procedure outlined above with themodified timer settings. Clean oven, then set the start and stop times to match. This shuts off power to the clean and Timed bake sections. I would recommend that you do not leave the area (kitchen) while the oven is running in this mode, as the only way for it to shut off is MANUALLY.
The oven selector knob’s are most likely reversed. The BOTTOM OVEN is the only one with the self cleaning feature.
Once you do that, follow the procedure
1.) remove all pots, pans, etc from oven. The only thing left inside is the oven rack. You can remove the sides, bottom and back panels o the top oven and put inside the lower oven during cleaning.
2.) Raise window shield.
3.) While pushing and holding the CLEAN Interlock button, move the door lock handle all the way to the right.
4.) The start timer is set to what time you want to start the cleaning. (*)
5.) The stop timer is set to the time you want to finish cleaning (usually 3-4 hours). (*)
6.) Selector knob to CLEAN
7.) Temp knob to CLEAN
8.) The CLEAN light will go on when the temp is above 600 deg or so. It will only go off when the temp is below that. This is another safety interlock to prevent you from opening the oven when it’s HOT!!!
9.) At the end of the cycle, reverse the procedure, let the oven cool to room temp, then wipe all interior surfaces with a cloth dampened with clean water only.
Your done and your oven is clean.
(*) This presumes that your timer/clock is working. If it is not working, then set the start timer knob for the time set on the clock. You’ll feel the detent when the times are the same. The FINISH TIME can be set for any time OTHER THAN the current clock time.
You must use a separate timer in this case. And I recommend you stay close to the oven while it’s cleaning in this mode.
I have its little brother… the built-in stove. UGH! It still works, but in order to change it we would have to change or cut our cabinets. Looks like its there to stay. 🙁
We have this double oven/range also. I really want to replace it but just can’t find anything that takes up the same space. Thinking about a GE JB850DFBB double oven with a separate range hood–but what to do with the open wall space between? The rest of the kitchen wall has tile between the cabinets and counter tops. Any suggestions?
I am looking for the top door for this oven as my tempered inside glass just broke and not sure can replace glass probably will need the top oven door w/glass as whole thing. Are you interested in parting with the top door since you spoke of replacing it?
I rent and the one I have, which isn’t working well at all, is only a TOP oven, with a stove top.
Can’t find the Serial # to get estimates on fixing it.
TIred of waiting 1 hr for oven to heat, and only 2 burners 1/2 working.
Thanks for your post!
Hey … I have a double oven just like this one that I cook with everyday. I bought it from our local school for $15.00 in 1999 (they stopped teaching cooking classes apparently in the 70’s LOL) I LOVE MINE and if I ever find another I would buy just to replace this one when it dies!!
I have one- doesnt’ work so well, wish I could find someone to fix all parts. Maybe landlady will sell this one-if you can fix it!
I need the top oven door with glass mine just broke are you willing to sell the top oven door only for parts since doesn’t work?
Susan, if you live near Tacoma, WA, you can buy mine. It’s a soft yellow and the only parts that don’t work are the timer (well I can’t figure out how to use it) and large front cooktops/elements. I’ve never used the bottom oven, so it is sparkling! Nancy
Nancy, do you still have your Americana stove
Caroline, Yes, I still have it. Where do you live? Timer and a couple of the stove tops are broken, but I have never used the bottom over.
Hi Nancy,
I have an Avocado Green Americana double oven but I am missing the top oven racks. Do you have a picture you could post of yours and also, do you know the model number on yours? I can’t pull mine out to see if the model number is on the back of the unit. I live in Olympia, WA.
Thank you!
Gilda
Gilda; Model and Serial #’s are on a plate attached on the upper RIGHT CORNER of the OVEN face. Open the lower oven then look for the plate in the UPPER RIGHT HAND CORNER.
This has been the location used on all GE Ovens from at least 1959 (that I’m aware of) to today. These monsters are too heavy to be moving around just for the model and serial numbers. Jeez, they actually thought out one thing and did it right! Will miracles never cease!
Larry
Gilda;
One more thing. The UPPER OVEN only came with a single rack. The lower oven has Two.
Larry
Gilda, I have one upper oven rack that is 20.25 inches X 12 inches. The model # is JHP56 OV7AD. This site will does not have an attachment option, so I am unable to post a pic.
i have one for you
Susan –
Is your stove an 30″ wide, GE-P7 self-cleaning oven Americana model?
I need a new clock for mine – it’s model #J797D2, purchased in 1968.
Everything else works perfectly! and just like you, I want to keep it!
Mary Lou T.
Go to General time repairs. They bought out the GE timer section and will replace your’s with a NEW timer/clock. http://www.generaltimerepairs.com/ I got one for my 1974 j767 and it works like magic.
Larry
Mine looks identical to this except it’s white. My sensor went out for the right front burner. Last time I saw this part for sale it was $165 on eBay! If anyone knows where to get a used part, let me know. Thanks!
Karl, Yikes! That’s expensive! I think that is what needs. I went online and found this website where the guy seems really knowledgeable: http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/86vcd-ge-americana-range-w-double-oven.html. Nancy
I just moved into an old home with one. How much would it be worth to sell?
My mom owns this stove too, but it’s beginning to stop working. The bottom stove stopped working and 2 of the 4 stove eyes have also stopped working. Does anyone know of a hardware store in the Los Angeles area (I just moved there) or the Philadelphia area (where I’m from) that might have the correct fuses needed to properly change them out? She wants to throw it out (and I don’t want her to), but before she does I think she should try and find the pieces to make it work. Thanks
I also own a GE P7, model# J 33901AV. I think it was made in 1976 and has a built in rotisserie which stils works. Unfortunately, like others here, the timer which controls the self cleaning function has stopped working. I would love to find some information on how to troubleshoot this but there is no info that I can find out there. I am thinking about trying to have the timer rebuilt.
I have two of GE double ovens more recent that the GE-P7 Americana here in Saudi Arabia These double ovens are made surely 30 years or more in the USA by GE. Unfortunately, one recently caught on minor fire for the upper part that damaged the lighting knobs as well as the knobs panel which has the clock and the timer. Does any body know where to find replacement for the complete knobs panel cover and possibly other parts.
http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/86vcd-ge-americana-range-w-double-oven.html
http://www.generaltimerepairs.com/
Need one of these ASAP. KNow where to get this
I have one it works perfect , except for the timer like others say . I Love my double oven . But it’s time to update kitchen and I don’t want to let go , but I got out voted here . Needs a good cleaning
I have one too, if you’re in the Seattle/Tacoma area. Nancy
I have one in Bradentom Florida
I am looking to buy a GE Amercana double oven
I have one for sale everything works like it was brand new, it has hardly been used. I have the gold color one if interested I live in Florida.
MIne is just the cook top with the Oven above, not a full top and bottom like the one shown.
Anyone know how to find the unit like mine? Oven above, and 4 burner, electric, cook top.
I have the one with oven only on top it is a drop in 4 burner. GE American model J772Y3WH I am looking for the seal around the oven door. Anyone have ideas? The ID plate is on the side when the oven door is open on the hinge side. Can’t find anything online.
I wish you could buy units similar to this … I would love a small second wall-mounted oven above my stove top instead of a microwave. Microwave doesn’t not in any way compare to traditional ovens. The only thing we’ve come to use microwaves for is soften butter & micro-popcorn both which we could work around. This style sure beats storing a toaster-oven (in cabinet or countertop), heating up the big oven for small items plus the bonus of two different oven temps. The new oven/microwave/convection of today … are re-marketed microwaves plain and simple. These ovens still and always use micro-waves to manipulate and heat, despite what the marketing mix of words seems to say. In additional to the controversial issues over microwave cooking, it’s just not the same at all – textures are weird, rubbery, even for reheats, primarily styled for processed foods vs real whole food cooking.
I know, I miss mine already.
I have one and want to move it, where can I find instructions about how is it attched to the cabinates for safe removal?
If it’s a full size Double oven unit, it’s totally free standing , except for the Exhaust Fan piping. Just disconnect the tubing and pull straight out. As for the cooktop with the upper oven I have no clue. I’d have to see either the unit itself or an install manual.
Hi, Larry! Could you tell me how to access the exhaust fan piping? My double oven unit seems to have the vent going up behind a permanently installed wooden panel. Thanks!
Most likely the wood panel was nailed to a frame above the stove fan unit. The panel will have to be removed so you can access the fan ducting.
Wife snookered me into our’s about 2 yrs ago. got it for $50.00 @ Habitat for Humanity. Everything works except for …..you got it, THE TIMER. I grew up with GE electric kitchens so I knew what to look for and where. I’ve got a new bake element and door gasket for the upper oven (get’s used all the time) coming from appliancepartspro.com. The timers fall apart due to the motor bearings and the gear set getting gummed up from the old grease and burns outthe motor or strips the gears. Ours is a J767001HT in Yellow from 1969-70.
Correction on the dating. Per the serial # it was made in June of 1974. I’ve replaced the blown upper oven element and the door gasket. Took about 25 minutes total. A new/rebuilt timer is on the way from http://www.generaltimerepairs.com . They bought up the GE parts warehouse and the line materials to rebuild these and other stove timers.
Where did you find the upper oven gasket???
http://www.appliancepartspros.com
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-gasket-silicone-oven-wb2x2957-ap2010491.html
I would call GE and see what they say.
I’m getting one this week! I’m so excited, you’d think it was Christmas. $60 and it will match my vintage house!
Thank you Larry I have one in Bicentennial (1976) built house. You just helped me buy an upper oven gasket – existing is remarkably long lasting but brittle at top where heat escapes. I knew it was rare to have two REAL ovens in the same freestanding stove, but when we tried to find a modern buy-able equivalent a few years ago, the gravity of the situation hit me: There is no equivalent available. Only similar nowadays are ones with two real ovens in bottom, invariably very small second oven and cramped and no where to put broiler tray and lids. My wife uses the upper REAL oven daily. I’ve lived in this house for 25 years and replaced all the top burners and their ceramic plugs probably 15 years ago as preventive maintenance, they could use it again but have worked well. Replaced upper and lower oven bake elements twice in last quarter century. Switches are great and work well. temperature sensors I need to change preventatively in the two ovens before they die. Clock still works but quirky. Self-cleaning aspect was ruined years ago as oven was cleaned by us – the coating we tried to get off as dirt was the magic self-cleaning coating that activated to self-clean by high temp cleaning cycle. A few years ago before we tried to buy a modern equivalent, an old one was out for the trash around the block. If I realized then what I do now, I would have grabbed it for parts at least or maybe to rebuild if possible. This was the best stove I’ve ever seen, it’s the freestanding, compact equivalent of two in-wall REAL ovens and full cook top, all in one compact portable package. God Bless the GE personnel who came up with this idea a half century ago.
David; You may still be able to self clean the lower oven using the cycle. Set it for 1 hour cycle and try it. The “magic self cleaning coating” is just a very high temp glaze GE used so that stuff didn’t stick to it when burned off during the cleaning cycle. What really cleans it is the 800-900 degree heat built up in the oven during the cleaning cycle. You should be able to remove all the heavy stuff with a scraper plastic or wood, and then use the cycle to burn off the remnants. You should be able to clean the upper oven panels using a 2-3 hour cycle. One of my sisters used Easy Off on the Self cleaning oven in the house back in the 70’s. It removed about 1/2 of the glazing but it self cleaned just fine if all of the heavy stuff was removed 1st. Mom almost stuffed her in the oven to see if it would clean her better than a bath! Shortly thereafter was a sign on the oven door detailing cleaning procedure…..”NO EASY OFF OR OTHER OVEN CLEANERS, or Dad’s belt would be used to great effect!”…
Larry
If anyone needs a new timer for their Dual Oven range. http://www.generaltimerepairs.com should have one in stock. I ordered mine for my J767001HT by phone on a Friday and it was shipped that day, and arrived the following Wednesday. Took me longer to remove the control panel and hang it, then it did to disconnect the old one, connect the new one, and plug it in and test it. While I was at it I use a whole can of CRC Brand QC Contact cleaner cleaning the old grease buildup from the switches, then sprayed Caig DeOxit Faderlube into the switches to re-lubricate them after the CRC washed out the original lube, cleaning the glass, and re-installed the whole thing. Box up the old one and sent it in as a core replacment. If you don’t send back the old one in 30 days, they add an additional $50.00 to your bill, (mine was $113.00 including shipping without core charge). Exact replacement, and it works perfectly. It now has new drip pans (you have to order them as the generics @ the big box stores usually don’t fit. also added new center caps to the burners (Genuine Calrod…….) It now runs 100% and the upper oven gets cleaned twice a month from use. We haven’t used the bottom oven yet except for cleaning the upper oven panels and making cookies when grand-daughter is over on occasional weekends. The only thing that galls me is that the lower burner top doesn’t raise up for cleaning. My mother was over 2 weeks ago and offered me $800.00 for it on the spot. I told her “No. Go find your own.” . Prices are only going up. I paid $75.00 2 years ago, and a Kenmore in a lot worse shape cosmetically, sold for $150.00 2 weeks ago at the same store.
The most common thing to go wrong on these is the timer/clock. This is common across all ranges tht use electr-mechanical timer/clocks. Then there is that sensor on the one large burner that keeps a certain temp (iirc that’s what it does, or else it switches between the large coil and the small coil. They weren’t that common, so I’d install a standard burner in that position and remove the wiring for that part. Trim pieces break off or crack. For cracks, JB WELD works fine if the pieces are cleaned of all grease 1st. If you don’t clean it good, it won’t hold no matter what you use short of welding it together.
The exhaust fan should be removed as a unit, disassembled and cleaned thoroughly. It’s been pulling greasy air thru it for a minimum of 35 years to almost 60. With it sitting on the upper oven, it gets quite hot up there and the grease liquifies and runs down the sides inside. This can and will be a fire hazard. I’ve scheduled mine to be pulled in a couple of weeks and will try to picture document dis-assembly, cleaning and re-assembly, and post it up somewhere with the pictures.
GE-P7 Americana: My buzzer won’t go off and I can’t fix it. Don’t know how to take it apart and tried to pull the appliance out to unplug it, but it won’t budge. Any suggestions?
Nancy;
Pull out the storage tray under the oven. The wall plug “SHOULD” be right there on the wall. Granted you’ll probably have to lay on your side to reach the plug. As it’s a 220v plug similar to a dryer plug it’s quite large. Pull it straight out, you;ll need to pull hard as the contacts are larger and are tighter. . If it’s not there it’s up higher on the wall. Your only options at that point is to kill the circuit breaker on the panel, then get hold of a couple high school football players (the bigger the better!) and ask nicely if they would pull it out from the wall and then after unplugging it, push it back. Walking it back and forth usually works, even if it’s an inch or two at 1st. If you have a hand cart with a large enough shelf on the bottom, you can use it as a lever to raise the front off the floor (it’s very heavy and will indent the floor and get stuck unless it’s sitting on steel or concrete) and pull it out.
But BEFORE THAT!!! Grab the knob for the timer and TURN TO THE LEFT and run the needle all the way around to 60, then back all the way to the off position. DO NOT PUSH ON THE KNOB as this will engage the hour and minute hands. If this doesn’t turn the trick, you can unplug the whole thing, then you have to remove the fan louver on the front. Look up at the hinges and pull the pin on the spring steel back enough to remove it. Then on the top of the control panel are 2 screws with phillips heads. Remove these and the control panel will angle down and hang on the ground wire. Inside that wiring rats nest you should find an envelope with the wiring diagrams. Get a repairman to disconnect the clock/timer and close it back up. The other option is to get a NEW CLOCK/TIMER unit, and wait for it to show up and then open it up, and move the wiring from one unit to the other, and close it up, plug it in and enjoy a new clock / timer. See my previous post dated July 23rd. DO NOT WORK ON IT with the plug in. You don’t want to end up as part of an AED ( automated external defibrillator ) ! With it unplugged you can disassemble the practically whole thing.
Any more questions go ahead and ask.
Continuation from 23 July:
Mom is highly miffed at me about me not selling her my Americana Oh well she’s 81, and the GE range she does have is good enough for what she does cook. It’s from the late 60’s (she found it last week), and in VERY VERY GOOD condition. Almost like it was used for heating water only. No grease anywhere to speak of, and was spotless otherwise. Dad replaced one Calrod unit (Right Rear) and it runs fine. We fine tuned the oven temp for her (she bakes incessantly), and is happy except it doesn’t have an upper oven. The timer on her’s does work (same as the one in my Americana). I gave Dad the info on the timer replacement. She’s never had anything but GE’s (except in Navy Housing in the 60’s and they had Whirlpool or Frigidaire’s at the time. She’s a die-hard GE Kitchen appliance freak. Oven, Dishwasher, Fridge, cooktop, Range, Freezer. She’s on her 3rd set of Washer-Dryer Since 1959. The 1st set she gave to my brother in 1984 after running for 6 days a week since new (4-5 loads a day (5 kids, 2 adults-Dad was Navy Chief so all his uniforms were wash khaki’s, and they got dirty on the sub’s). 2nd set lasted up until 2005 when they sold the big house (they went with house) and her 3rd set she got with the new house (she spec’ed GE appliances for it vs. Kenmore).
I’m a GE Fan but not as much as she is. Range/Oven, Dishwasher, Washer/dryer. I don’t care for their Refrigerators, so I’ve been on a Frigidaire kick until last month and bought a Samsung 25ft French door model. Base unit but it has more usable space than a 28ft GE or anyother side by side. Dishwasher is a 1978 model year GE with the Woodgrain on the control panel, and matching yellow front panel (The americana is Yellow.) The GE Washer & Dryer are 1985 models, and basically last of the procelain coated tubs with metal tumbling fins in the dryer. And the washer has that lint filter on the top of the agitator. Big Mechanical timers that actually make noise, (I always hated Mechanical timers that were silent). Only thing I’ve replaced on the Washer is the pump, and a belt on the dryer. Dishwasher has a new door gasket. No other parts or repairs other than normal maintenance and cleaning out the pump inlet. But GE’s quality is going downhill for the last 5-10 years now. plastic tubs, plastic fins in the dryer and no lint filter in the washer.
END OF CONTINUATION of 7-23-16.
Nancy. A model # would help immensely to help figure out how to shut down the timer.
If you find the envelope, scan both sides of the wiring diagram. Send it to me at
lderouin107 AT Verizon DOT NET. And I’ll go over it and see if it can be partially disconnected to shut off the timer only and get back to you. A picture of the Range would help also in figuring exactly how to get to the timer.
Larry
Larry, you were so kind to give me so much info, but now I’m trying to give away the appliance and can’t find anyone that wants it even to repair and resell or to part out. If there’s anyone in Western WA state that wants it, please let me know asap. Otherwise, it’s going to the dump.
NANCY: If I was in Western WA state, I’d be all over it like white on rice. Unfortunately I’m on the East Coast.
Larry
I have an off white ge p7. Everything still works even the built in florencent light on top as well as the clock. Only thing I had to do was change the power cord on the back.
CLEANING THE OVER THE OVEN FAN!
You;ll Need the following tools and parts;
1/4″ nut driver or 1/4″socket on a 1/4″ Ratchet with a 3″ extension.
Side Cutter pliers.
Wire Nuts (3) and electrical tape or Heatshrink tubing.
Gallon jug of ZEP Industrial strength PURPLE DeGREASER!!!
3 in 1 Motor Oil (Blue and White can), or Sewing Machine oil. Nothing else.
UNPLUG STOVE FROM WALL!!! VERY IMPORTANT!!
1. Remove the Front lid
2.The Front Fascia panel removes with 2 1/4″ screws. Remove and set aside for cleaning.
3. The top Trim piece removes with 2 screws. Set aside for cleaning.
Now you have access to.the Fan and the compartment. You’ll see 3 wires coming from the fan. Take a piece of masking tape and wrap each wire on both sides fo the existing wire nuts (crimp type.) and then write 1, 2, and 3 on the tape on both sides of the wire nuts. THE POWER IS OFF RIGHT?? MAKE SURE!!! If UNPLUGGED, use the side cutters to cut the wires just on both sides of the crimp wire nuts.
4. Remove the cross bracket on the bottom of the compartment with 2 screws. Lift out for cleaning.
The fan hangs on a bracket with two, for a lack of a better term, knobs. Lift the fan housing slightly so the knobs clear the slot and pull it back to you, It will come completely out.
Disassemble the fan shroud by removing the 9 screws on the periphery of the shroud. Lift off for cleaning. There is one friction clip on the motor shaft to undo. This takes a 5.16″ nut driver or ratchet and socket. Then twist and lift off the fan from the motor. 3 nuts on the motor housing to the fan shroud. And that’s the extent of dis-assembly.
Fill up the sink, with HOT WATER and pour a cup of the PURPLE DEGREASER in it, and mix. Place all the shroud, pieces in to soak a few minutes. Lay the Front fascia, the front lid, and other long parts in as far as they will go. You’ll have to do these in sections. Get out a green scrubbie pad and go to town on the parts. Wear gloves if you’re squeamish about the cleaner. It willmake your hands feel slimy but rinsing them off will give you very clean and dry hands.
Rinse all parts in HOT WATER! When you have all the parts EXCEPT for the motor cleaned, let them air dry. Then take a cloth and wipe down the outside of the motor with the sink solution, then wipe dry with paper towels. On the motor housing ends there are oiling ports. Drip oil into these until it won’t take any more.
Now you get to clean the compartment. I use the purple stuff in a spray bottle. 1 part of cleaner to 3 parts hot water. Spray liberally on all surfaces, and let sit for a minute. Break out a new roll of paper towels and use them to wipe down the surfaces. Get as much as you can off on the sides below the bottom panel The sides angle down to the sides to below bottom of the oven where the fan filters are. You can clean underneath there too if you are industrious or have OCD.
When everything is clean and dry, assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. When the motor assembly is in, you need to connect the wiring. Take the two wires with the tape marked 1 and twist the bare ends together. Wire nut them tightly and wrap with tape tightly. Do the same for the #2 and #3 wires. If you have heatshrink tubing of the right size, slip it over the taped ends and shrink it with a hair dryer on high heat. It’s extra protection but not required.
Finish off the assembly by plugging in the stove and then turn on the fan on the fast setting. leave it on for 30 minutes to warm up and evaporate any moisture on/in the case. And to lubricate the bearings/bushings in the motor. Wipe down the exterior of the stove. And pat yourself on the back. Send yourself a customer satisfaction survey and give yourself whatever makes you feel good!
Larry
Forgot this
DO NOT, repeat DO NOT DUNK THE MOTOR! OR you;ll destroy the motor. Just wipe it down on the outside with a cloth slightly wet with degreaser. Then immediately Wipe Dry with PAPER TOWELS!!!
Does anyone know where I can get a manual for this stove. I was just given one in almost new condition. Thanks. Or if you can tell me how to use the rotisserie?
What’s your email address? I’ll send you a pdf of the instructions.
Nancy: Could you send me a copy of the owners manual if you’ve already scanned it, please. See email 2 replies down.
Thanks
Larry
Hi Nancy, May I have a copy of the instructions? I still have the beast in my basement and would like to fix a few things. Kind Regards, torroslo AT gmail.com.
Thank you Nancy. shalommarpe@gmail.com.
Nancy Sorry to hear your stove isn’t working for you. When the fellas we putting mine in. I was wondering about the availability of parts. If you haven’t scrapped the stove, I’ll buy the meat thermometer attachment from you. Maybe other parts too. Let me know.
Torroslo, did you receive the oven instructions (2 separate emails) I sent around 15-April?
Hi Nancy, Sorry, the email I provided was almost correct. The real address is torr.oslo AT gmail.com. Please try again. Sorry for the confusion.
Upper or lower oven. It should have some kind of indicator on the oven control knob, maybe? Temp would be broiler as you don’t want the lower element on as it would cause a fire if it was. There may be a separate control for the rotisserie tho. Never seen one in person. Maybe a motor switch on the front panel for the rotisserie. Make damned sure there is a dripping catch pan underneath able to catch ALL DRIPPINGS!!! Again Fire prevention.
Nancy beat me to it with instructions. HEY NANCY, do you have an owners manual? Can you scan me a copy and send to lderouin107 AT verizon dot NET. Thanks.
Larry
Sure, Larry. Give me some time since I have to scan each page.
Kim, I don’t have the meat thermometer. Sorry. I’ll email you the 2 pages for the rotisserie soon.
Larry, I’ve tried to send you 3 emails with the files, but your service isn’t allowing for 2 reasons: 1) files too large, so I sent them separately; and 2) 571: Email from 66.163.191.34 is currently blocked by Verizon Online’s anti-spam system. The email sender or Email Service Provider may visit http://www.verizon.net/whitelist and request removal of the block. 170415. If you have a different email address, like Yahoo/Gmail/etc., then I’ll be able to send these to you.
Does anyone have an extra meat thermometer? Or know where to get parts? Cooked our first meal in it last night. What a great stove!
Kim; Just go down to the store and look in the kitchen accessories section. Any old Meat thermometer will work for you. Unless the meat thermometer isan electrical part of a circuit that won’t work without it. In that case, I’d just put the oven in a normal bake/broil position and stick a regular old meat thermometer in the meat and just keep an eye on it. When the meat gets to the specified temp or higher, pull the meat and turn off the oven.
Thanks Larry. I was hoping to get the attachment for the stove since it’s built in. A lot of thought went into this stove. It’s a beauty. I love the light that comes on automatically every time I open the oven door. Genius.
OUCH! Finding the thermometer is like finding hen’s teeth. Figure about 10-15% of the stoves had the accessory from the factory for the few years it was available. And there weren’t that many of these stoves made over the years, so finding a factory meat thermometer is going to be a long term hunt. For example, I have a 1958 FISHER Contemporary monophonic consolette. http://www.fisherconsoles.com/photographs/contemporary%20c800%20photographs.html Trying to find the exact size and shape “coolie hat” brass insert for the knobs has been a 10 year hunt. I finally found a guy on the net who makes them ($10.00 ea). They aren’t exact but close enough that from 5′ away you can’t tell the difference. Best bet is to get on EBAY and put a search on it for you. You’ll get all kinds of hits for different parts and whole stoves, so choose your words closely.
Yeah that light coming on is neat. There should be a switch on the door that turns on the light with the door closed. Right side up under the handle. I thought it was neat in 1959 when I was 4years old.
Larry
Does anyone have a source for the Rocker switches for the Oven lights and the Fan switch???? Model # is J767001HT
Would u please send me link to the owners manual? My lower oven doesn’t work and when I turn the knob to bake a buzzard sound comes on and doesn’t stop till I turn it off. Also do you know where to locate an oven element. I believe this may be needing to get replaced.
Modtob; Sounds like the Oven switch or the pilot lamp relay behind the panel might need replacement. Ever notice when either the upper or lower oven is and the light between the selector switch and the temp rheostat comes on and off? There is a RELAY that powers the NEON lamp on and off. If the relay contacts are excessively dirty or pitted from arcing, then the relay will cycle real fast sounding like a buzzing sound due to low voltage to the relay coil. If you open the panel there is a wiring diagram paper (or should be) on the outer wall behind the panel. You’ll have to trace out the wiring to find the relay.
Find the model # on the tag on the lower oven behind the door next to the lamp switch. Write it down and go here. Insert model # and search for lower oven element. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliances/GeneralElectric
Larry
My P7 has found a new home! YAY! I offered it for free on FB Marketplace and someone responded within a couple of hours! They picked it up the next evening, but forgot the bottom drawn and manual (I’ll be giving them this link as well). We’re still working on getting these to them. But YAY!
If anyone lives in the Phoenix area, I’m selling one if you need parts or whatever –
phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/atq/d/1970s-avocado-green-range/6525647883.html
DAMN! If you were in D.C. or Baltimore I’d be on that like white on Rice. I need parts from one but no need to part out one that looks as good as this does.
I have that stove right now and am told it works. Want it? Or how can I get rid of it?
Amy; Where are you located. If you are within 5hours one way from Baltimore, I can take it off your hands. IF not and you want to part it out, I can use the control panel intact with the Rheostats behind it. I’ve got two that I replaced and the replacements are cheap springy CHINESE JUNK even tho they say Robert-Shaw. Leave me an email @ lderouin107 AT verizon DOT net with info and a picture of the stove please.
Thanks
Larry Derouin
Larry-
I just got one of those vtg white General Electric Dual oven stoves
Model J 767001WH Serial HT50634M
Everything works wonderfully except The lower oven which looks sparkly clean.
I pulled entire back from the stove and see nothing disconnected, I went as far as replacing the oven elements and I simply do not get any heat action – of course the light in oven comes on but that is all.
What would your guess be for me to try and purchase and replace to get this baby up and running so I can install this beast.
Thanks Jason
Powhatan Virginia
Make sure the timer hours on the ON and OFF clocks are set differently, otheriwse it won’t work, even in OVEN or BROIL. If it still doesn’t work, take voltage readings (WARNING….220V AC INSIDE. Insulate the probes on your meter all the way to the tip to minimize any “AW SHiT” moments when the probe slips…..and it invariably will .) on the OVEN SELECTOR SWITCH and the Thermostat. Look for any corrosion on the wires at the connectors to the elements, and at the switch/thermostat. I had a problem with my upper oven not working and it turned out I had a connector hanging on by 1 or 2 strands of the wire. I can’t remember if the fuse behind/underneath the left back burner is in the oven circuit or not, but check it anyway. Don’t pull a Grandpa and stick a penny behind to bypass it. It’ll fuse the penny to the contacts and will quite possibly burn down the house.
I just stumbled onto this site. I have been looking for a GE P7Americana for 4 years. I had one back in the 70s and remodeled our kitchen and bought a Jenn-Air to replace. I really wished I had not donated that stove……I would love to have another one in black, yellow or other colors. Does anyone know where I could find this same stove. I really loved the double oven! HELP
I no longer have mine. Gave it away.
If your mechanical clock/timer quits, the alarm buzzer won’t buzz, and at the same time your self cleaning oven won’t work, probably you have a blown fuse. On an electric range, if you take out the one screw that holds the left rear burner (you can leave the burner electrical connections attached) to the stove top you will be able to see the fuse box to the back. Just move the burner a little so you can see and get to the back of the stove and take off the one screw that holds the fuse cover on. It uses a 15 amp type S/SL fuse. This fuse location is used not only on GE Americana ranges, but other GE ranges as well.
I still have one of these and I’m still looking for another to have as a spare. Mine is exactly like the one pictured and it still works like a charm!!!!!!!
I am looking for an electric stove similar to the photo. I have Kenmore elite classic self-cleaning
range. It is bronze and everything works. It was in a fire about 40 years ago and I have had it over 30 years. It needs a new glass door on the top oven and maybe some new wiring but it works. I would love to have another one.
I would love to get a technical manual for the GE P7 Americana double oven. My clock and surface light do not work. I think on the light it’s the push button switch. How do you access them?
thanks, John
UNPLUG THE UNIT BEFORE ATTEMPTING INSPECTION OR REPAIRS!!!!
At the top of the switch panel (above the clock) is one (1) phillips head screw. Remove that, and the the switch panel rotates down. The clock just gets replaced. http://generaltimerepairs.com/ . You order a new timer/clock assy, and return yours as a core. About $120.00 Should be this one
Description GE analog range timer stove clock
Range Manufacturer General Electric
GE Manufacturing Number 3AST19A275A3B
Service Part #(s) WB19X0087
The surface light could very well be the switch. It’s at the bottom of the same panel in a cluster with the oven light and fan switches. I waited 6 years for one to come up on E-PREY for the FAN Switch. The light switch might be available separately as it’s a SPST switch usually part # is wb24x177. You’ll need your model # off the tag (upper right corner of Lower oven face). Then search the diagrams at repairclinic.com for your specific oven model (my J767001 won’t show, but the J765001 is identical). So far nobody has the switch now($44 to $60). It’s discontinued, so you may have to look on E-Prey. One other thing you could do is to swap the OVEN light switch with the stovetop switch (just swap the wiring over and remember which is which).
We have a 1969 GE double wall oven in avocado green (it’s the P*7 top-of-line with self-clean for both ovens). The oven is original to a house we just purchased. The home inspection indicated it still worked, but the thermostat was off slightly. Before we sent it to the landfill, we wanted to see whether anyone may want it.
We bought a fixer upper in 2018 (built in 1973) that is equipped with a GE P7 wall oven. It is in excellent working condition. I used the self cleaning function yesterday and it didn’t let me down! I came across your post while searching for the built in meat thermometer accessory; no luck yet. Your P7 is very cool and could be a real beauty if restored. We plan to keep our golden wheat colored P7 even when we renovate – just can’t bear the thought of letting her go.
I have 1974 GE double oven in white with black door, it still works but I would like to replace it with gas stove but cannot figure out how to move it, it is pushed back between cabinets and very heavy, any ideas would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
did you figure out how to remove it. we have the same problem with my mother in laws in FL. Best Buy is coming to remove it but not sure they will be able to figure out how. is it attached to the wall?
I’m looking for the top oven glass..mine. shattered. Can’t find glass for the same dual p7 1974 oven mine yellow or mustard color..are you interested in selling for parts.
I have this exact same dual oven and same color. I have one small back eye doesn’t work but probably can fix if needed it but don’t use that eye. My clock doesn’t work either and the cleaning option never tried to use didn’t know how i just hand cleaned it.However, recently my top oven door inside tempered glass shattered and I need either another inside tempered glass or the entire door with 2 glass in it. Anyone have one they are willing to part out or a place where I can get the top oven door. My oven model# is J 765003HT serial #SP289964M
thanks
Kandy; To Self clean.
1.)Empty the lower oven.
2.)There is a Push button(Locking Relay button) about 1/2 way up the control panel to the right, between the burner and oven controls (round pin type, black) Push and hold,(You’ll hear a clunk or thunk) while moving the lock rod at top of oven to the right. Release the button. It’ll clunk or thunk again)
3.) If timer/clock is working, set the START timer to current time (it’ll lock in.) Set the STOP timer to 4 hours past that.
3A.)If timer/clock is not working, setthe start timer to the time on the main clock (it’ll lock in) and the stop timer to any position. STAY CLOSE TO UNIT so you can shut it down Manually. Use another timer for 4 hours.
4.) Turn Lower oven control to “CLEAN” and temp to max or clean.
5.) When the oven get hot the lock will be held locked and the clean light will come on.
6.) end of cycle….Timer will shut off oven and it will cool down (about 1.5 hours). When the light goes off, turn off the oven control and temp to minimum. Push the lock relay button on control panel while moving the lock rod to the left.
7.) open oven to allow it to cool to room temp.
8.) When cooled off, use a damp sponge to wipe ash residue from bottom of oven.
ALL DONE.
Kandy;
The door will have to be replaced with a donor unit.
Most likely either the control for that burner (eye) is bad, the ceramic connector for the burner is shot, or the burner itself is bad. Switch-Look for a used one. Part # WB21X0222 (E-Bay)
The newer robertshaw controls are push then turn and are garbage. Shafts flex too much and snap off.
Ceramic burner Connector block Part # WB17X5051
6″ Burner Part # 6 Inch WB30X218
https://www.reliableparts.com/lookup/169741
Larry I left a message because I am worried about my upper oven gets extremely hot on the side outside metal panels when oven is on. I don’ t know if it could be the insulation has worn down after 50 years. I called GE and no one seems to answer my question.
Do you know why it would do this, The oven is up against a wooden cabinet.
Appreciate any input.
It’s probably been like that since NEW. There is NO insulation between the oven itself and the outer casing. There is an air space described below. My P-7 was in the kitchen for 10 years before I moved and took it with me. No scorching on the upper cabinets and they touched the outer casing. Also this oven in daily use (lower got used only for Thanksgiving, Christmas and semi-annual cleaning of upper oven parts.). It’s now in garage as extra ovens for family gatherings.
Pull the filter off the front of the vent and look inside at the outer edges (sides)looking down. The oven should have at 2-3″ gap between it’s LEFT SIDE and the outer casing. The Right side should have a 4-6 inch gap. These extend to under the oven housing. At the bottom are the lower Filters. This air gap is for venting the cooktop and keeping the outer casing cool enough to prevent burning of the surrounding cabinets. It acts as insulation (of a sort) between the upper oven and the outside casing. The UPPER OVEN is NOT self cleaning(you can removed the bottom, side, and Back panels and place in LOWER oven for Self Cleaning.)
Turn on the fan hi or low, close the upper exhaust door and see if you get air movement toward the lower filters. (light some stick candles on the cooktop, then blow them out). If the smoke moves toward the filters, you’ve got airflow to the fan. if not, you’ve got a clog. Very unlikely tho unless you fry all the time, and then the grease will build up mainly on the outer walls of the casing, and it won’t be thick at all. IT’ll be thicker on the an assy up to where it cools.
The hand is a poor thermometer. How hot are the sides. Fire up the oven to 350* (vent fan off). Take a reading and then turn on the vent fan on Low for another hour, take a reading, then another hour with the fan on High. Outer casing temps should get progressively lower.
For example. I have stereo receivers and amps that run on tubes and in WOOD Cases. The transformers are uncomfortably HOT by Hand or Finger (hold on for 2-3 seconds and have to lift off). But an infrared Thermometer shows they are running between 140*F and 155*F, which is normal. The output tubes are running 350*F- 400*F depending on volume, and less than 1″ from any of the wood. No fires since 1964 when they were built. And they are used 8-10 hours a day. Air is a fair insulator, but the outer walls can get hot. Usually not enough to scorch the wood, but it can discolor over the years.
Hot water in your house (if you have a newer house and water heater) by code has to be set to no more than 120*F to prevent scalding for new installations and is set to that at factory. Your skin says HOT! and Thermometer say 120 or so. So HOT, by touch, is a subjective term. The more you’re around heat the more you desensitize to it, up to a point. What might be very hot to you might be slightly hot to someone else.
Take some temp readings as noted above and post as a reply.
Really, there are no repairs for this as it sounds like it’s normal behavior.
Larry
Is the 1962 double oven stove free standing, except for the exhaust van connection? If so, how do you disconnect exhaust fan?
The Exhaust fan will either exhaust out of the top or the back depending on ceiling or wall exhaust. Usually a slip fit thru the back, but if top exhaust, the flue will be screwed to the the flange on the exhaust housing. Look for a stack pipe above the stove (thru a cabinet). If so un-screw from flange and lift up. Then you can pull out stove. If from back usually it can be pulled straight out.
I have this oven without self cleaning part. It was working perfectly, I just noticed something a week ago that the outside panels on the upper oven are extremely hot. Since this oven sits against my wood cabinets I am ver concerned about fire. I don.t know how it has been doing it but I don’t want a fire hazard.
I am not sure if the insulation inside has deteriorated or it is something else.
Please advise if anyone knows who could repair it.
Thanks,
Where can i find a donor top oven door?
Thanks
Where can i find a donor top oven door?
Thanks
Hi I have a p7 enjoy it everyday and now I’m looking for a replacement. I don’t have the self-cleaning oven just looking for another one mines is mustard color send me a text please where I can find one. Thanks BarbaraElam
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